Four-year harvesting technology of greenhouse eggplant

In response to the challenges of difficult eggplant cultivation, long seedling periods (typically 80–100 days), and repeated planting issues such as plant death, we have implemented grafting, root exchange, annual production, and multi-planting techniques in greenhouse environments in recent years. Through research on high-yield and high-efficiency cultivation models, we have developed methods including grafting, root replacement, plant adjustment, root-protecting leaves, pruning and regeneration, micro-fertilizer hormone treatment, and selective breeding. These techniques have enabled yields of up to 20,000 kg per 667 square meters, with profits exceeding 10,000 yuan. Here is a detailed introduction of the technology: **1. Variety Selection** We select early-maturing, high-yielding, low-seed, and high-quality hybrid green eggplants, such as "Yuyuan Green Oil." For rootstock, we choose varieties resistant to Verticillium wilt, bacterial wilt, root-knot nematodes, and other diseases, such as "Phoenix." **2. Seedling Technology** - **Nursery Time:** Late August to early September. - **Grafting Technique:** Using the splicing method, scions are sown after the rootstock has emerged. Grafting is done when the rootstock has 5–6 true leaves and the scion has 4–5 true leaves. The rootstock is cut at the middle of the stem, leaving two true leaves, while the scion is cut into a wedge and inserted into the rootstock. Clips are used to secure the graft. - **Post-Graft Management:** After grafting, seedlings are placed in a shaded area and covered with plastic film to maintain humidity. Daytime temperatures should be 28–30°C, and nighttime temperatures 20–18°C. Relative humidity must stay above 95% for the first three days. Shade is gradually removed over 4–5 days, and the cover is fully removed by day 7–10. Watering should be done carefully to avoid waterlogging. After 50–60 days, the scion begins to colonize. Weak or poorly grafted plants are removed during this period. **3. Transplanting** - **Time:** Mid-November. - **Fertilization:** Apply 5 cubic meters of decomposed chicken manure, 100 kg of compound fertilizer, 100 kg of cake fertilizer, and 2 kg each of boron, magnesium, and zinc per 667 square meters. - **Soil Preparation:** Till the soil to a depth of 30 cm, then form ridges 70 cm wide and 50 cm apart. - **Planting Method:** Choose a sunny spot, plant seedlings 35 cm apart in rows, create 15 cm high ridges, and cover with a 1.3 m wide film. **4. Field Management** - **Temperature Control:** During transplanting and hardening off, keep daytime temperatures between 30–35°C and nighttime temperatures between 20–25°C. After hardening off, adjust to 25–30°C during the day and 18–20°C at night. - **Watering:** Start watering after opening the greenhouse. Keep the soil moist but not saturated. In winter, use under-membrane irrigation. In late March, increase watering. - **Light:** Clean the film regularly and remove weeds within allowable temperature ranges. - **Fertilizing:** After tomato stabilization, apply 25 kg of compound fertilizer per 667 square meters, followed by 30 kg of urea. - **Pruning:** Remove lateral branches below the first fruiting node. After fruit set, retain strong branches and prune weak ones. Keep two main branches and remove dense or old leaves. - **Fruit Protection:** Use eggplant bulging spirit, 2,4-D, or anti-declining agents during flowering to prevent fruit drop. - **CO₂ Fertilizer:** Apply CO₂ gas from December to February when temperatures are low, adjusting frequency and concentration based on seedling conditions. - **Foliar Spray:** Every 15–20 days, spray 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate + 0.3% urea solution. Add pesticides or micronutrients as needed. - **Pruning and Regeneration:** In mid-to-late July, prune aged branches and keep one vegetative branch near the base to promote new growth. A second harvest can occur about 50 days later, peaking in late October before winter management begins. **5. Supporting Technology for Pruning and Regeneration** - Apply hormones like auxin, cytokinin, cell revitalin, and mesitride depending on purpose and concentration. - After pruning, replenish organic fertilizer and loosen the soil for better water absorption. **6. Pest Control** - **Brown Streaks:** Use 75% Kang Genuine WP diluted 600 times or 80% Hansheng WP diluted 800 times. - **Mianbing Disease:** Apply 64% antiviral WP 400 times or 50% Mn 800 WP 800 times. - **Gray Mold:** Use 50% acetaminophen wettable powder 1500 times or 50% pyrimethanil WP 1000 times. - **Virus Disease:** Apply King of Anti-drug 500 times. - **Locusts:** Use Effort EC 1000 times. - **Red Spider:** Apply 20% single water repellent 1000 times. - **Hummer:** Use 20% Wolfberry Creamer 1000 times, 40% Lester’s Cream 1000 times, or 1.8% Afording Emulsion 1000 times. - **Cabbage Worms:** Mix 2.5% Kumquat Chrysanthemum 1500 times with 1.8% Efforting Emulsion 1000 times. Apply these solutions every 7–10 days. **7. Seedling Diagnosis** - **Seedling Stage:** Sufficient nitrogen leads to darker leaves, while insufficient nitrogen causes lighter color. Low humidity with excess nitrogen may cause leaf curling due to boron deficiency. Leaf tips may shrivel if affected by tea plant pests. Thrips damage causes rough, spotted leaves. Locusts cause leaf curling, while red spider infestations show yellow-white spots that turn red. - **Fruiting Stage:** Strong-growing plants with large, dark flowers indicate good health. If only 1–2 leaves are present at the flowering node, it may signal poor growth, low ground temperature, or insufficient water and fertilizer. Good growth shows 5 cm internode spacing. If shorter, improve light, temperature, moisture, and nutrient conditions accordingly.

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